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ArticlesThe New Camp Connection
1. More efficient shopping.
4. Even Lower Pricing - Gym Master, Nalgene, Seal-Line, Gildan and more.
3. Up to date Merchandise and information - Go ahead, ask us about everything.
2. Out of stock items - we're trying to make them a thing of the past.
1. Quicker shopping. When is all this happening? Right now! Summer is just around the corner. The store is filling up with merchandise. The new fixtures, cash setup and systems are being added daily and the changes are all for the better. Are you ready for the New Camp Connection? We are ready for you.
Sean Markle How Clean are Your Skivvies?Are you sure? Where do you buy your unmentionables? Think about this for a moment: What is the return and exchange policy where you buy your socks and underwear? Is it 'All underwear is Final Sale" or can you exchange items that don't fit, or are unacceptable for some reason? A couple of years ago, WCBS filmed an expose on major retailers(Victoria's Secret, Macy's, the Gap, Lord and Taylor, etc). They bought ladies and men's underwear, removed any tags or packaging, and wrinkled it to suggest it had been worn or at least tried on. They also discreetly marked the items so that they could be identified as that same item in future. And then they returned the items to the store and watched what happened. I'll bet you can guess. The merchandise was almost always retagged and placed right back on the shelves. Everything from frilly thong underwear to tighty-whitey's. But when you think about it, what else would you expect? If the store will take the items back, what do they do with the returned items? Should they then try to return possibly worn underwear to the manufacturer? In most cases the manufacturer will refuse. Should the retailer throw out the possibly worn underwear and absorb the loss on a customer's error or whim? A small loss once in a while is fine, I suppose - but it makes it difficult for a business to generate profit when they are returning items for a loss on a regular basis. The other option for any business is to flat out refuse to accept underwear returns. This is never popular with the 'Customer is Always Right' crowd, who demand Customer Satisfaction. And stores are rightfully wary of angering customers, especially in a grey area like loose fit boxers and 'unopened' packages. Many people, both in retail and consumers in general, are under the impression that this issue is regulated in some way by either the municipal, provincial or federal government. I believed that most stores were required by provincial legislation to either refuse returns of intimate apparel, or dispose of accepted returns. I was given this information during my first retail training, and I have since trained all my staff in this way. But I had my eyes opened when we recently conducted some research on the subject. The closest thing to actual government policy we could find was in a 2005 report on the 'Youth Partners Project' by the Canadian Council of Provincial Child and Youth Advocates. After receiving complaints from the displaced youth such as "Sometimes the laundry isn't cleaned properly, especially underwear" the official recommendation was that "The practice of recycling underwear should be discontinued immediately."With little to no mention of personal garment returns in any government documentation, we made some phone calls. Contacts at the Municipal level in health or any department, the Provincial Health and Consumer Affairs offices, and at Health Canada itself gave the same response: "It's an Urban Myth." There is no such regulation at any level of government. Each business is expected to develop its own policy with regards to the sale and return of personal items, which is why there is such a difference from store to store with regards to how this issue is dealt with. So where does that leave the battle of the bottoms? Right where you might expect. Every business looks to their bottom dollar. Major reputable chains may choose to accept the returned undies and take the loss. Or as WCBS found out, they may take the return and simply re-shelf the item for the next unwary customer. And the honest retailers? They can't afford to take the loss but will refuse to put returned underwear back on the shelf even at the risk of alienating customers. La Senza will not accept returns of underwear or other questionably personal items, and As of April 2007, Zellers Canada has followed suit. Zellers has posted that they will no longer accept returns of any personal garments 'for hygienic reasons.' Contrast that with a major chain like Victoria's Secret, which will apparently accept anything as a return and you wonder what they do with all that returned underwear? Trash it? Not likely. The question then becomes - should this be a regulated issue? Should some level of government step in and lay down the law, or should consumers and retailers be trusted to regulate themselves? Is it reasonable to have a 'No returns' policy, or to expect all stores to take a return? And how about loose fitting boxers or socks or hats? Should they be considered the same type of garment as a bathing suit or thong? Obviously a black and white blanket policy is going to be impossible, but any shades-of-grey option isn't going to be easy to implement. I don't see any Government regulation coming on this any time soon (if ever), and I don't trust many retailers to not re-shelve returned goods of their own volition, regardless of what they claim. My recommendation? Don't buy personal items from a store that will accept them as a return. At the very least - ask what happens to the returned items if they are brought back. And most importantly, always wash any garment before wearing - especially items of a more… intimate nature. So I'll ask you again - where do you buy your unmentionables?
Backcare On The Go: New OBUS FORME Ltd. Backpacks Engineered To Improve User Safety And ComfortWith a staggering 330% increase in injuries from backpacks since 1996*, carrying the “weight of the world on your shoulders” is no longer just a casual cliché. Backpacks have become a necessity of life, with school children at the top of the user’s list. With their delicate musculoskeletal systems and still-developing bodies, improper backpack use can have both long and short-term effects on a child’s back health. (For the complete Article see Obusforme.com Back to the Top Choosing a Paddle.I see the innate hockey player in the people who shop our store almost every day. They walk up to our paddle rack, pull down a nice looking paddle and stand it on the floor in front of them. And just like a hockey players, if the paddle stands to between their chin and their nose they nod their heads and troop off to the cash to purchase their new paddle. This sizing method works for hockey sticks just fine - but with paddles a little more consideration is needed. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure that hockey-sized paddle will do just fine for occasional paddlers and as the odd makeshift goal stick. But here's the deal: If you take a little time and figure out what you need, you are going to get a paddle that will be more efficient, suit your style of paddling, and allow you to move farther, faster.
Shaft Length The most important part of fitting your paddle is the shaft length, and unlike your hockey stick, your overall height has little to do with the length of your paddle. Keep in mind that something like 80% of all paddlers can use a 54"-60" paddle. The key here is the length of your torso. There are many theories and methods to figure this, but I'm just going to cover two: If you are feeling more technical - sit (don't slouch) on a wooden, straight backed chair. Measure from the seat of your chair to your eyebrows, and that should give you a good indication of the length of shaft you need. Remember that the blade length is usually included in a paddle measurement. Blade type This is where a lot of people seem to get hung up - What's the difference between a Beavertail and a Voyageur style paddle blade? Why would I pick one over the other? Go back to the blade of your hockey stick. When you start to play, you can pretty much use any stick and get used to it. It takes time to figure out if you prefer a straight blade (to give you a stronger backhand shot) or one with a crazy illegal curve (for the wicked wrist and snap shots to the top corners). An Ottertail paddle (my paddle of choice) is designed a little more with flatwater in mind. It's a little longer so it grabs the less turbulent water that's a little deeper down. And it provides a little more control - which is why it is a choice for many Soloists. It tends to be a little long and narrow for shallower, faster water. The Voyageur style blade is wide and square. It takes a little more skill to have this paddle enter and exit the water without catching the sharper corners on the water, but the tradeoff is that it will pull more water with each stroke. It does require a little more strength and endurance on longer jaunts, but it is also more effective in shallower water than the Beaver or Otter tail because of it's width at the tip. There are as many different styles of paddle blade as there are people who make them - these are just three of the most common. If you shop around you'll note that every manufacturer has their own spin on even these three basics. You should never hesitate to try out something new, because who knows - it may work for you. Grip Shape
Construction and other considerations. There are a ton of other variables to look into. Wooden paddles come
in all varieties - heavier paddles for durability, lighter for comfort
and endurance. One Piece for strength, Laminated for cost and/or beauty.
Resin tips to protect from rocks and sand are very popular. Basically the best way to pick a paddle is to go out and try different things. Figure out what works for you. Where are you going to be paddling and for how long? Like your hockey stick, you will develop a preference and build familiarity with every stroke, and like your hockey stick you should always carry a spare - in case of breakage. Keep your stick on the ice and happy paddling. Back to the Top Keeping warm this coming winter - Mom always did know best.
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Purple Noses and Frozen Tongues |
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How to deal with camp packing (1)
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West Nile Virus vs. Deet based insect repellent.Debate over ‘lesser of two evils’ heats up as snow melts. The West Nile virus - spread by mosquitoes - is bad. How do you prevent contracting this virus? Use insect repellents - most of which are Deet based. Deet is also bad. It is an interesting and scary dilemma and the few options for side-stepping the whole mess are not very attractive. With the overwhelming volume of information and misinformation, how do you choose the lesser of two evils in this battle royal? In one corner you have the dreaded West Nile Virus. West Nile was discovered in Uganda in 1937, but did not become a major concern in North America until after the New York epidemic of 1999. West Nile can be contracted by nine different mammal species, including Gorillas and Humans, and is carried by a large number of species of bird. The virus is spread to Humans almost solely by the bite of mosquitoes (like outdoor enthusiasts needed another reason to despise the little flying vampires). West Nile can cause fatal inflammation of the brain (known as encephalitis) or of the membranes covering the brain or spinal cord (know as meningitis). These are more serious infections - shown by high fever, stiff necks, disorientation, comas and convulsions. However it usually produces flu-like symptoms - either asymptomatic infection or mild febrile (feverish) disease, and tends to most strongly affect the very young or elderly. Signs of the illness can include fevers, head and body aches, and skin rashes, and usually turn up between five and fifteen days after beeing bitten. West Nile can seem to be a mild nuisance in most cases, - more akin to a head cold than its deadly reputation would indicate - but its rapid spread and the fact that it is almost unpreventable make it a serious concern. Coupled with the fact that the North American version of the illness "seems to be a more lethal and infectious strain than anticipated" (it has now been attributed to "a condition called sudden limb paralysis" affecting otherwise healthy adults), In the Toronto area over the last year there were only 125 confirmed cases of the illness, and only 305 confirmed cases in all of Ontario (Sources differ slightly on these numbers), but these are sure to grow rapidly as the Virus spreads. West Nile has become a major worry. |
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Picking the right sleeping bag - Don't be caught napping.will my son need for summer camp," well, I’d have a lot of dollars. If I knew the correct answer to that same question, I would be on info-mercials and have a lot more dollars. There are so many choices - styles, weights, temperature ranges, and types of insulation that my answer invariably, is: "I don’t know, what will it be used for?" If you answered "well, I’m going to sleep in it," I claim no responsibility for my actions. What choosing a sleeping bag boils down to is balancing three key points - Construction, Usage, and the ever important Cost. The balance is slightly different for every person, so no one bag will cover all uses - two people will plan the same trip, and want two completely different bags. The trick is to know what you are looking for and be able to make an informed decision. Sleeping Bag Construction. Sleeping bags are built in as many different ways as there are sleeping bag manufacturers, but the end result should be the same for each bag - a good night of sleep for you. Here are some things to look at when checking out bags: Temperature Rating. Temperature rating is only a guide, and despite sounding very scientific and quantifiable, is a poor indicator of sleeping bag performance. Ratings are generally found by using a copper dummy to measure heat loss across time in controlled conditions. Many companies do not bother with this system, and even the ones who do, tend to have inconsistent results. Temperature ratings should only be used to judge what time of year, or what climate a bag will be most useful in. Regardless of the factory temperature rating, the bag can only maintain heat, not produce it. You are the furnace for your sleeping bag (it’s all very Zen) and if you produce little heat, are sensitive to cooler temperatures, or need the psychological comfort of a nice heavy blanket, all of the temperature ratings in the world might not help you keep warm when the sun drops. Fill. The type of stuffing used to insulate your bag is called fill. Fills usually fall into two categories: Natural, and Synthetic. Natural insulation means goose or duck down - the best insulators there are (Long story short, all Fills trap air in tiny pockets, and air, being a poor conductor of heat, keeps the bag warm. Down has more and better little air pockets). Down is light and can become very compact. Problems arise when down gets wet - it loses almost all of its insulation value and takes forever to dry. Down bags also need to be stored hanging or they will lose their fluffiness (technically referred to as ‘loft’). Synthetic fills are man made fibers which come in many shapes and sizes. Hollofil, Polarguard, Quallofil, Primaloft, Thinsulate and Thinsulite are just a few - all with widely varying insulation values and weight properties. The benefits of synthetics in general are that they tend to wear better with use, store better, maintain warmth when wet, and dry faster. On the other hand, nothing compares to down for weight vs. insulating value, and synthetic bags tend not to have as much loft as a good down bag. Shell. The shell, or the outer covering of the bag is generally a nylon or nylon mix for weight and durability. Nylon shells often include Rip-Stop, and some are water proofed to increase the durability of the fill. A decent bag also has a draft tube, usually (although not always) made of the same material as the shell. The draft tube is a flap or tube of fabric which sits behind the zipper to prevent drafts and excess heat loss. Zipper. The bigger and heavier the zipper, the longer it will hold up and the more abuse it can stand. The balance to that is flexibility and weight - smaller zippers are lighter and more easily rolled or stuffed. Most bags have plastic zippers as metal zippers will damage the lining, draft tube and shell.Shape. Sleeping bags come in two general shapes, Barrel (square bottom), and Mummy (tapered bottom). Barrel bottom bags tend to be more comfortable for people who prefer more room in the foot area. A mummy bag tapered at the bottom maintains warmth more efficiently, tends to pack slightly smaller and weigh slightly less. Hoods are available on some bags (in both shapes, though most often found on mummy bags), and are designed to prevent heat loss by pulling up and around the sleeper’s head. This is highly effective in colder situations, but quite often the hood also serves as a convenient place to tuck a pillow, or a way of keeping out bugs. Stuff Size. How big is the sleeping bag when it is all bundled up and ready to go? If you plan on hiking your gear in, or portaging it on a canoe trip, smaller, lighter and more compact is always more desirable (however it is often more expensive). If you are using it in the back yard, or pulling it out of the back of your car at the campsite then weight and size are no big deal. Sleeping Bag usage. Simply put - when, where and how often are you planning on using the bag. If it is to be used for backyard camping or sleeping on the neighbors floor, you don’t need to invest much money, and stuff size and weight are not a big issue. If you plan on scaling Everest however, you will be more concerned with all of the above and more. People who work or play outdoors in all seasons and climates often have three or four different bags, and plan ahead enough to know which bag they are going to need. For the average user, one carefully chosen bag will most often suffice. Cost Sleeping Bags range anywhere from $20 Canadian, to $700 and beyond. Most of us will spend somewhere in the $50 to $150 range to get exactly what we need. Synthetic bags are less expensive than down, and for both, bags with higher loft and higher temperature ratings tend to cost more. For the most part, sleeping bags are one of those items where you get what you pay for - good quality is often indicated by a higher cost. The biggest danger when buying a bag is not poor quality for your money, but buying an expensive bag whose features you have no need for. I am a huge advocate of making sure the bag you buy is a quality one, and is going to stand up to use. A decent sleeping bag - no matter what style - will last the average user for many years if it is properly cared for. My parents have an old pair of well used Woods 3lb bags that have been around longer than dirt. These bags have seen more Provincial parks, backyards and sleep overs than can be counted, and are still as effective as the day they were bought. Trying to balance these three categories can be overwhelming, especially if you go into a store or outfitter unprepared and uneducated. All of the options, sizes and temperature levels tend to run together very quickly. Take your time, hunt around and do your research. Know roughly where and when you want to use the bag, and have a (reasonable) ballpark figure of what you would like to spend. Armed with this information any decent sales staff should be able to help you find exactly the bag You need. Without the sarcastic answers, or me trying to collect another loony. Sean Markle Camp Connection General Store April 26, 2003 Back to the Top |
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Fitting a paddle involves more than just overall length. It involves
Shaft length, Blade type, and grip shape - not to mention what/where you
are paddling (keep in mind that I am writing mostly about flatwater and
recreational paddles). So let's get the language barrier out of the way.
Paddles are a relatively simple item with a few key parts. The top end,
where you place your hand is the 'grip.' The long part between your hands
is the 'shaft,' and the 'throat' (also called the 'shoulder') is where
you place your lower hand to paddle - just above the flare where the shaft
widens out to become the blade. The wet end of the blade is called the
tip.
If you come into the store, we are going to have you stand with the
paddle on your head. And no, it's not just so we can laugh at how silly
you look. Grab the paddle on the shaft just below the grip and at the
throat, and then hold the paddle, shaft centered, on your head. The angle
at your elbows should be about 90 degrees. If your arms are wider the
paddle is too long, and if your arms are narrower, the paddle is too short.
This is a general guideline and works in almost all cases - especially
for a recreational paddler. But don't forget that the blade needs to reach
the water, so how you position yourself and the depth of your boat are
also factors here.
A lot of people happily spend their entire paddling careers using a
basic Beavertail paddle. Wide, long and rounded. Shaped like, well, the
tail of a beaver. This is an ideal all purpose shape. It provides lots
of surface with which to 'pull water,' the rounded edges give a smooth
entry and exit for each paddle stroke, it is not too deep and can serve
in shallower and faster water in a pinch, as well as being useful for
a nice flatwater tour.
The last real variable for fit is the shape of the grip. There are basically
two options: the 't-grip', and the 'pear' or 'palm' grip. The majority
of recreational and flatwater paddles on the market are built with a smooth,
shaped palm grip. It is infinitely more comfortable for longer trips (you
will probably be taking something like 1000-1600 strokes an hour - you
want to be comfortable). The t-grip gives your top hand a little more
leverage, providing you with more control in tight situations. This grip
is more popular among white-water enthusiasts, and it is often recommended
for children because their smaller hands have an easier time holding the
t-shape.